Beverages
Suja (Himalayan Butter Tea)
सुजा
Suja — known as po cha across the Tibetan plateau — is savoury rather than sweet: strong dark tea churned with butter and salt into a warm, soupy, faintly cheesy brew. In the high valleys of Mustang, Dolpo, Solukhumbu and Manang it is a practical food as much as a drink, supplying fat and salt at altitude and chapping-proof warmth in the cold. Guests are served cup after cup, and etiquette is to never quite finish yours, so it can keep being topped up.
- Prep
- 5 min
- Cook
- 20 min
- Total
- 25 min
- Serves
- 4
- Difficulty
- Easy

At the stove
Method
Bring the water to a boil and add the brick tea or tea leaves along with the pinch of baking soda.
Simmer uncovered for 10 to 15 minutes until the liquid is very dark and strong — far stronger than you would drink on its own.
Strain the tea into a jug, discarding the leaves.
Pour the hot tea into a blender (or the traditional wooden churn, the chandong) with the butter, salt and milk if using.
Blend or churn vigorously for a full minute until the mixture is uniformly emulsified and topped with a light foam — this step is what turns tea and butter into suja rather than greasy tea.
Return it to the pan and warm through gently without letting it boil again, which would split the emulsion.
Taste and adjust the salt; it should read clearly savoury.
Serve very hot in small bowls or cups, refilling guests' cups before they empty.
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