Staples & Mains
Phapar ko Roti with Curry
फापरको रोटी
Buckwheat grows where rice and wheat will not, so in Mustang and the high valleys phapar ko roti is the daily bread: a pale grey, slightly nutty flatbread cooked on a griddle. Thakali households know it as ghoken and serve it with dal, a vegetable curry, or simply with chilli-timur salt and a bowl of buttermilk. It is soft and pliable when hot and best eaten straight off the pan.
- Prep
- 15 min
- Cook
- 25 min
- Total
- 40 min
- Serves
- 4
- Difficulty
- Easy

At the stove
Method
Whisk the buckwheat flour, rice flour, salt and carom seeds together in a bowl.
Pour in the warm water a little at a time, beating continuously, until you have a thick, smooth, pourable batter with no lumps.
Let the batter stand for 15 minutes; buckwheat has no gluten, so this resting time helps it hold together on the pan.
Toast the timur and dried chillies in a dry pan, then grind them with a good pinch of salt to make the traditional seasoning powder.
Heat a flat griddle or heavy pan over medium heat and brush it with ghee.
Pour a ladleful of batter into the centre and spread it outwards quickly with the back of the ladle into a round about 18 cm across.
Cook for 2 to 3 minutes until the surface dulls and the edges lift, then drizzle a little ghee around the rim, flip, and cook the other side to light golden brown.
Stack the rotis under a cloth to keep them soft and serve warm with dal or curry, yoghurt, and the chilli-timur salt on the side.
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